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Whites from Italy

Valle d'Aosta

Valle d'Aosta is a small Alpine region between Piemonte and the French Alps in Northern Italy, hence the French sounding names of the varietals and the producers. The Cave du Vin Blanc is home to the highest vineyards in Europe, at the foot of the Mont Blanc.
       
Les Cretes, Chardonnay 'Cuvée Bois'   2005 145

Piemonte

Piemonte is regarded as one of the best and most important wine producing regions in Italy, and this reputation has been earned by its red wines. However great Chardonnays are produced, and Arneis is a wonderful success story. An old grape near extinction, it was rediscovered and revived by a few producers in the Roero hills. The other whites of interest are produced with the Cortese grape.
       
Aldo Conterno, Chardonnay 'Bussiador'   2005 95
Angelo Gaja, Langhe Chardonnay 'Gaia & Rey'   2004 350
Angelo Gaja, Langhe Chardonnay 'Gaia & Rey'   2006 415
Angelo Gaja, Langhe Chardonnay 'Rossj-Bass'   2007 175
Angelo Gaja, Langhe Sauvignon Blanc Alteni di Brassica   2006 240
Bric Cencurio, Roero Arneis Sito dei Fossili   2005 50
Bruno Giacosa, Roero Arneis   2008 65
La Scolca, Gavi 'Black Label'   2007 84
Marchesi di Grésy, Langhe Sauvignon   2000 65
Vigneti Massa, Timorasso 'Derthona'   2007 50

Lombardia

       
Conti Sertoli Salis, 'Torre della Sirena'   2005 65

Veneto

Soave Classico is produced in the Soave hills near Verona. The classic blend of Garganega and Trebbiano has recently been modified to include up to 30% Chardonnay. Additionally, young winemakers are producing wines using solely Garganega, often fermented in barrique.
       
Inama, Soave Classico Vigneto du Lot   2007 55
Leonildo Pieropan, Soave Classico Calvarino   2006 63
Leonildo Pieropan, Soave Classico La Rocca   2006 85

Trentino-Alto Adige

This bilingual Alpine region is producing outstanding white wines that range from the noble varietals, such as Chardonnay and Riesling, to the lesser known but very interesting Muller Thurgau, Gewurztraminer, and Kerner. Chardonnay can achieve a very high level of quality more similar in style to Burgundy than California in the hands of producers like Lageder and Klaus Gasser at Cantina di Terlano.
       
Alois Lageder, Chardonnay 'Lowengang'   2005 75
Az. Agricola Garlider, Sylvaner   2005 60
Baron di Pauli, Gewurztraminer 'Exilissi'   2004 120
Cantina di Terlano, Pinot Bianco, Riserva   1996 240
Cantina di Terlano, Pinot Bianco 'Vorberg' Magnum   2000 250
Cantina di Terlano, Pinot Bianco 'Vorberg'   2005 65
Cantina di Terlano, Sauvignon 'Quarz'   2008 100
Cantina Valle Isarco, Kerner 'Aristos'   2008 50
Kofererhof, Sylvaner   2008 55
Kuen Hof, Veltliner   2004 95
Kuen Hof, Veltliner   2007 80

Friuli-Venezia-Giulia

In this northeastern region bordering Austria and Slovenia, the hilly zones of Collio and Colli Orientali are producing some Italy's finest whites. Many varietals are produced here with great success, including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Bianco, and Pinot Grigio. The more intriguing wines are Tocai (which, beginning with the 2007 vintage, will be known as Friulano), Ribolla Gialla, and the less common Malvasia and Vitovska.
       
Bastianich, Tocai Friulano 'Plus'   2005 95
Bastianich 'Vespa Bianco'   2007 65
Damijan 'Bianco Kaplja'   2004 115
Edi Kante, Chardonnay Riserva   2001 125
Edi Kante, Malvasia   2006 80
Edi Kante, Vitovska   2006 80
Eugenio Collavini 'Broy'   2005 80
Josko Gravner 'Breg'   2003 195
Josko Gravner, Ribolla Gialla   2003 195
Lis Neris, Pinot Grigio   2007 50
Lis Neris, Pinot Grigio 'Gris'   2007 60
Livio Felluga, Friulano   2008 55
Renzo Sgubin '3, 4, 3'   2006 55
Schiopetto, Friulano   2007 60
Silvio Jermann 'Capo Martino'   2004 155
Silvio Jermann, Chardonnay 'Were dreams......'   2005 115
Silvio Jermann 'Vintage Tunina'   2006 133
Vodopivec, Vitovska 'Classica'   2005 140
Zuani 'Zuani Bianco'   2006 75

Emilia e Romagna

One would expect wines of a higher standard from one of Italy's wealthiest regions, but the production is predominately controlled by large cooperatives producing massive quantities of wine. The future is bright, though, as more producers all over the region are focusing on quality with very good results. Albana, the first white wine to be awarded DOCG status, and Malvasia are the grapes to watch.
     
2006 45
La Stoppa 'Ageno' 2005 78

Toscana

As in Piemonte, the focus is on the red wines in Tuscany, however good results have been achieved from Chardonnay in this very dynamic region. Vernaccia, grown in the hills near San Gimignano, has a long and vibrant history, and recent changes allow the addition of up to 10% Chardonnay. Vermentino has blossomed into a very promising varietal that showcases wild herbs and almonds, and is generally fermented in stainless steel tanks.
       
Giacomelli, Vermentino Colli di Luni 'Boboli'   2007 80
Massa Vecchia, Vermentino 'Ariento'   1998 50
Querciabella 'Batar'   2006 145
Tenuta dell'Ornellaia, Poggio alle Gazze, Sauvignon Blanc   2008 88
Terenzuola, Vermentino Colli di Luni 'Fosso di Corsano'   2007 55

Marche

Verdicchios from the hills near the Adriatic and from the small Apennine town of Matelica have achieved a great level of quality, and can be found in two different styles: Light and fresh, and a perfect accompaniment to the local fish dishes, or aged to reveal depth and complexity, as is the case with Bucci. The Pecorino varietal is usually blended with other local grapes to produce other wines of interest.
       
Mancini, Blanc de Pinot Noir 'Impero'   2007 90
       
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
     
       
Fattoria Laila 'Eklektikos'   2005 45
Bucci 'Villa Bucci,' Riserva   2003 100
Bucci 'Villa Bucci,' Riserva   2005 95

Lazio

       
Fiorano, Semillon 'Botte 47'   1988 200
Monastero Suore Cistercensi 'Coenobium Rusticum'   2007 65
       

Umbria

Orvieto was traditionally produced in a lightly sweet style, but is now usually a dry wine. Many changes have taken place in this region and Marco Caprai is the man responsible for the area's overall increase in wine quality. His Grecante gets better every year, while conserving the tipicity and the respect for the terroir. Antinori owns Castello della Sala, a property in Orvieto that makes an outstanding proprietary wine, Cervaro della Sala. Noted wine consultant Riccardo Cotarella, at his La Carraia estate, and Paolo Nodari, at Castello delle Regine in the Southern town of Amelia, are both producing quality whites.
       
Arnaldo Caprai, Grechetto 'Grecante'   2007 45
Castello della Sala 'Cervaro della Sala'   2007 90
Paolo Bea, Trebbiano Spolentino 'Arboreus'   2004 140

Abruzzo

Trebbiano d'Abruzzo is the grape of importance in this region, and the releases from Edoardo Valentini have often been described as Italy's greatest dry white wine. Overproduction has been a big problem for this varietal, hence the varied levels of quality.
       
Ciavolich, Pecorino 'Aries'   2006 45
Edoardo Valentini, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo   1999 170
Edoardo Valentini, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo   2000 180
Edoardo Valentini, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo   2001 200
Edoardo Valentini, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo   2002 220
Emidio Pepe, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo   2005 140

Campania

All the principal white varietals from this region, including Falanghina, Greco di Tufo, and Fiano di Avellino, have been successfully revived in recent years and are achieving unprecedented levels of quality. Falanghina shows an aromatic character, while Greco di Tufo displays minerality, and Fiano di Avellino offers an attractive scent of hazelnuts, pears, and honey. Mastroberardino is primarily responsible for resurrecting this variety, and other producers, in particular Feudi di San Gregorio, are leading the move toward quality.
       
A Casa, Falanghina   2007 52
Colli di Lapio, Fiano di Avellino   2008 50
Feudi di San Gregorio, Greco di Tufo   2007 45
Marisa Cuomo 'Fiorduva'   2005 80
Pietracupa, Greco di Tufo   2008 53
Villa Raiano, Greco di Tufo   2006 54

Puglia

Rosé wines are difficult to market because of their inevitable association with white Zinfandel. The Calo' house makes this type of wine their specialty. The Negroamaro grape (translated black bitter) gives this wine its imposing character while its crisp acidity mantains the wine's balance.
       
Alberto Longo, Falanghina 'Le Fossette'   2007 50

Sicilia

Changes in this region have taken place more rapidly than elsewhere in the country, and Sicilia has emerged with a renewed spirit and attitude, as well as a new found respect for its indigenous varietals. After successful efforts with Chardonnay, Sicily's native white grapes, Catarratto, Inzolia, Grillo, and Zibibbo, are now receiving the producers' attention. The relocation of vineyards from the very hot valley floor to cooler, higher elevation sites have allowed the grapes to achieve a more desirable level of acidity, thus ensuring better definition and more character.
       

Barone di Villagrande, Carricante

  2006 40
Benanti, Carricante 'Pietramarina'   2004 75
Firriato 'Santagostino Baglio Soria'   2004 50
I Vignieri di Salvo Foti, Etna Bianco 'Vinujancu'   2008 88
Il Cantante, Etna Bianco   2004 155
Marco De Bartoli, Zibibbo 'Pietranera'   2007 73
Tenuta della Terre Nere, Etna Bianco 'Cuvée delle Vigne Niche'   2008 65

Sardegna

The northern part of the island favors white varietals, in particular Vermentino and Vernaccia, due to its cooler climate, while the southern and eastern regions are better suited for the red varietals. Sardegna is perhaps the largest producer of Vermentino but not very much is exported.
       
Capichera, Vermentino   2006 95
Dettori Badde Nigolosu, Vermentino 'Dettori Bianco'   2006 55

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