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Whites from Italy

Valle d'Aosta
Valle d'Aosta is a small Alpine region between Piemonte and the French Alps in Northern Italy, hence the French sounding names of the varietals and the producers. The Cave du Vin Blanc is home to the highest vineyards in Europe, at the foot of the Mont Blanc.
           
Cuvée Bois Les Cretes Aymavilles Chardonnay 2005 145
Rayon, Blanc de Morgex Cave du Vin Blanc La Ruine, Morgex Blanc de Morgex 2004 50

Piemonte
 
Piemonte is regarded as one of the best and most important wine producing regions in Italy, and this reputation has been earned by its red wines. However great Chardonnays are produced, and Arneis is a wonderful success story. An old grape near extinction, it was rediscovered and revived by a few producers in the Roero hills. The other whites of interest are produced with the Cortese grape.
           
Bussiador Aldo Conterno Monforte d'Alba Chardonnay 2004 95
Gaia & Rey Angelo Gaja Treiso Chardonnay 2004 275
Gavi, Black Label La Scolca Rovereto in Gavi Cortese 2006 84
Gavi, Montessora La Giustiniana Rovereto in Gavi Cortese 2007 55
La Rustia' Gian Luigi Orsolani S.Giorgio Canavese Erbaluce 2006 40
Langhe Arneis Damilano Barolo Arneis 2006 40
Roero Arneis Bruno Giacosa Neive Arneis 2007 65
Rossj-Bass Angelo Gaja Barbaresco Chardonnay 2006 120

Lombardia
           
Riesling Renano, Vigna Costa Bruno Verdi Canneto Pavese Riesling  2005 45
Torre della Sirena Conti Sertoli Salis Tirano Rossola/Pignola 2005 65

Veneto
Soave Classico is produced in the Soave hills near Verona. The classic blend of Garganega and Trebbiano has recently been modified to include up to 30% Chardonnay. Additionally, young winemakers are producing wines using solely Garganega, often fermented in barrique.
           
Capitel Croce Roberto Anselmi Moteforte d'Alpone Garganega 2005 45
Lugana, Riserva Sergio Zenato San Benedetto Trebbiano 2003 50
Soave Classico, Calvarino Leonildo Pieropan Soave Garganega/Trebbiano 2004 49

Trentino-Alto Adige
This bilingual Alpine region is producing outstanding white wines that range from the noble varietals, such as Chardonnay and Riesling, to the lesser known but very interesting Muller Thurgau, Gewurztraminer, and Kerner. Chardonnay can achieve a very high level of quality more similar in style to Burgundy than California in the hands of producers like Lageder and Klaus Gasser at Cantina di Terlano.
           
Aristos Cantina Valle Isarco Chiusa Kerner 2005 50
Chardonnay, Riserva Cantina di Terlano Terlano Chardonnay 1994 200
Chardonnay, Riserva Cantina di Terlano Terlano Chardonnay 1995 200
Exilissi Baron di Pauli Caldaro Gewurztraminer 2004 120
Kolbenhof Josef Hofstatter Termeno Gewurztraminer 2003 65
Lowengang Alois Lageder Magre' Chardonnay 2003 70
Prail Colterenzio Appiano Monte Sauvignon Blanc 2006 63
Riol Heinrich Plattner Waldgries St. Justina Pinot Bianco 2003 45
Sylvaner Az. Agricola Garlider Velturno Sylvaner 2005 60
Voglar Peter Dipoli Cortaccia Sauvignon Blanc 2004 75
Vorberg, Magnum Cantina di Telano Terlano Pinot Bianco 2000 350

Friuli-Venezia-Giulia
In this northeastern region bordering Austria and Slovenia, the hilly zones of Collio and Colli Orientali are producing some Italy's finest whites. Many varietals are produced here with great success, including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Bianco, and Pinot Grigio. The more intriguing wines are Tocai (which, beginning with the 2007 vintage, will be known as Friulano), Ribolla Gialla, and the less common Malvasia and Vitovska.
           
Capo Martino Silvio Jermann Villanova di Farra Ribolla/Tocai/Pinot Bianco/Malvasia/Picolit 2004 155
Gris Lis Neris San Lorenzo Isontino Pinot Grigio 2005 60
Malvasia del Carso Edi Kante Duino Aurisina Malvasia 2000 55
Pinot Grigio Lis Neris San Lorenzo Isontino Pinot Grigio 2006 50
Ribolla Movia Brda, Slovenia Ribolla 2004 50
Ronco delle Mele Venica & Venica Dolegna del Collio Sauvignon 2007 60
Soris Pierpaolo Pecorari San Lorenzo Isontino Chardonnay 2002 48
Tocai Friulano, COF Livio Felluga Cormons Tocai 2006 55
Tocai Friulano, Collio Schiopetto Capriva del Friuli Tocai 2005 55
Tocai Plus, COF Bastianich Casali Ottelio Tocai 2005 80
Vespa Bianco Bastianich Casali Ottelio Chardonnay/Sauvignon/Picolit 2006 63
Vintage Tunina Silvio Jermann Villanova di Farra Sauvignon/Picolit/Chard/Tocai/Ribolla/Malvasia 2005 115
Vitovska del Carso Zidarich Prepotto Vitovska 1999 75
Were dreams...... Silvio Jermann Villanova di Farra Chardonnay 2004 105
Were dreams...... Silvio Jermann Villanova di Farra Chardonnay 2005 100
Zuani Bianco (Unfiltered) Zuani S.Floriano del Collio Tocai/Chardonnay/Sauvignon/Pinot Grigio 2004 65

Emilia e Romagna
One would expect wines of a higher standard from one of Italy's wealthiest regions, but the production is predominately controlled by large cooperatives producing massive quantities of wine. The future is bright, though, as more producers all over the region are focusing on quality with very good results. Albana, the first white wine to be awarded DOCG status, and Malvasia are the grapes to watch.
         
Tasto di Seta Ziano Piacentino Malvasia di Candia 2006 45

Toscana
As in Piemonte, the focus is on the red wines in Tuscany, however good results have been achieved from Chardonnay in this very dynamic region. Vernaccia, grown in the hills near San Gimignano, has a long and vibrant history, and recent changes allow the addition of up to 10% Chardonnay. Vermentino has blossomed into a very promising varietal that showcases wild herbs and almonds, and is generally fermented in stainless steel tanks.
           
Ariento Massa Vecchia Massa Marittima Vermentino 1998 50
Batar Agricola Querciabella Greve Chardonnay/Pinot Bianco 2005 140
Bugia Testamatta Vincigliata Ansonica 2005 95
Scalabrone (Rosato) Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Syrah 2006 50

Marche
Verdicchios from the hills near the Adriatic and from the small Apennine town of Matelica have achieved a great level of quality, and can be found in two different styles: Light and fresh, and a perfect accompaniment to the local fish dishes, or aged to reveal depth and complexity, as is the case with Bucci. The Pecorino varietal is usually blended with other local grapes to produce other wines of interest.
           
Verdicchio di Matelica La Monacesca Potenza Picena Verdicchio 2005 40
           
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi
         
           
Eklektikos Fattoria Laila Mondavio Verdicchio 2005 45
Frocco, Riserva Tre Castelli Staffolo Verdicchio 2006 68
Villa Bucci, Riserva Bucci Ostra Vetere Verdicchio 2003 75
Villa Bucci, Riserva Bucci Ostra Vetere Verdicchio 2005 95

Umbria
Orvieto was traditionally produced in a lightly sweet style, but is now usually a dry wine. Many changes have taken place in this region and Marco Caprai is the man responsible for the area's overall increase in wine quality. His Grecante gets better every year, while conserving the tipicity and the respect for the terroir. Antinori owns Castello della Sala, a property in Orvieto that makes an outstanding proprietary wine, Cervaro della Sala. Noted wine consultant Riccardo Cotarella, at his La Carraia estate, and Paolo Nodari, at Castello delle Regine in the Southern town of Amelia, are both producing quality whites.
           
Cervaro della Sala Castello della Sala Ficulle Chardonnay/Grechetto 2005 71
Grecante, Colli Martani Arnaldo Caprai Montefalco Grechetto 2006 45
Orvieto Salviano Baschi Grechetto/Procanico/Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc 2006 40

Abruzzo
Trebbiano d'Abruzzo is the grape of importance in this region, and the releases from Edoardo Valentini have often been described as Italy's greatest dry white wine. Overproduction has been a big problem for this varietal, hence the varied levels of quality.
           
Aries, Pecorino Ciavolich Miglianico Pecorino 2006 45
Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Edoardo Valentini Loreto Aprutino Trebbiano 2000 120
Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Edoardo Valentini Loreto Aprutino Trebbiano 2001 120

Campania
All the principal white varietals from this region, including Falanghina, Greco di Tufo, and Fiano di Avellino, have been successfully revived in recent years and are achieving unprecedented levels of quality. Falanghina shows an aromatic character, while Greco di Tufo displays minerality, and Fiano di Avellino offers an attractive scent of hazelnuts, pears, and honey. Mastroberardino is primarily responsible for resurrecting this variety, and other producers, in particular Feudi di San Gregorio, are leading the move toward quality.
           
Falanghina del Taburno Fattoria La Rivolta Torrecuso Falanghina 2005 40
Fiano di Avelllino Pietracupa Montefredane Fiano 2005 61
Fiorduva Costa d'Amalfi Furore Fenile/Ginestra 2005 80
Greco di Tufo Feudi di San Gregorio Sorbo Serpico Greco 2005 44
Greco di Tufo Villa Raiano San Michele di Serino Greco 2006 54

Puglia
Rosé wines are difficult to market because of their inevitable association with white Zinfandel. The Calo' house makes this type of wine their specialty. The Negroamaro grape (translated black bitter) gives this wine its imposing character while its crisp acidity mantains the wine's balance.
           
Le Fossette Alberto Longo Lucera Falanghina 2006 55
Mjére (Rosato) Michele Calo' Tuglie Negroamaro/Malvasia Nera 2005 40

Sicilia
Changes in this region have taken place more rapidly than elsewhere in the country, and Sicilia has emerged with a renewed spirit and attitude, as well as a new found respect for its indigenous varietals. After successful efforts with Chardonnay, Sicily's native white grapes, Catarratto, Inzolia, Grillo, and Zibibbo, are now receiving the producers' attention. The relocation of vineyards from the very hot valley floor to cooler, higher elevation sites have allowed the grapes to achieve a more desirable level of acidity, thus ensuring better definition and more character.
           
Etna Bianco Barone di Villagrande Milo Carricante 2006 40
Bidis Valle dell'Acate Acate Chardonnay/Inzolia 2004 55
Leone d'Almerita Tasca d'Almerita Vallelunga Pratameno Catarratto/Inzolia/Chardonnay 2005 42
Maria Costanza Az. Agr. Milazzo Campolbello di Licata Inzolia/Chardonnay/Nero d'Avola 2004 50
Santagostino Baglio Soria Firriato Paceco Catarratto/Chardonnay 2004 50

Sardegna
The northern part of the island favors white varietals, in particular Vermentino and Vernaccia, due to its cooler climate, while the southern and eastern regions are better suited for the red varietals. Sardegna is perhaps the largest producer of Vermentino but not very much is exported.
           
Capichera Capichera Arzachena Vermentino 2006 95
Dettori Bianco Dettori Badde Nigolosu Sennori Vermentino 2006 55

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